Over the past winter through spring and now into early summer, I have battled an addiction. That addiction was that I was spending countless hours working on and making changes to my motor boat and drift boat. (Known as my twin kids) I am a very hands on/active person so, hanging out in the garage doing little projects on my kids is something that is just as fun as actually using them.  But trust me, I will get them out now that they are starting to be where I want them. So here are a few of the improvements(I hope) I have made to the kids over the past few months.

Corna-(Drift Boat)

1. Raptor Lined the Inside Hull: The reason I decided to raptor line the inside of my boat was simple. I was sick of redoing it yearly, so I decided to choose something that was durable and can be easley cleaned by spraying it out. Plus it is waterproof and will help prolong the life of the boat.  To give it some more character(Like it needed it, with the lime green paint) I added black liner to the top sides and faded it into the white. Making it look tougher or something???

Before

After

2. Repainted the trailer: Having a nice boat, but a rusty trailer is not acceptable in my eyes. So I sanded it down, primed then spayed the whole thing with Rustolem Brand Truck Bed Liner Spray. Found it at Auto Zone for $8 buck a can. It seems to work a lot better then your typical spray paints. I have driven it to the Green a few times and it has held up great.

3. Repainted and varnished: Having a wood drift boat can be a lot of work if you make it. I decided to invest in nicer paint and varnish in hopes that it will last me longer than the cheaper stuff I have been using. It looks great and has been worth the extra cash so far.

Motor Boat

The motor boat has been a huge undertaking. I basically remodel the whole inside as well as added lots of cool little extras to make being out on the lake more enjoyable. 

1. Inside Seating/Upholstery: Out with the old and in with the new roomy wrap around seating.

Before

After

Added Bow Middle Cushion

Wrap Around Seating & Subs

Adjustable Swivel Captions Chair

2. Sound System: Whats better than chillin on a boat with your friends listing to good music? NOTHING. With this in mind I added a few more speakers(4) as well as a couple subs and tweets. 

3. Tower Lights and Speakers

4. Battery Switch: It allows me to change from battery 1, 2, both or off. This is great to charge both batteries at the same time as well as turning it off in-case you leave something on like the radio. Full batteries is the key.

5. Extended Swim Deck-Plywood coated in Raptor Truck Bed Liner

6. Repainted trailer: Same undertaking as the drift boat.

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Most people think that rowing a drift boat is easy, until they try it. This week we give you some great advice to rowing a drift boat for the first time or for a seasoned guide.  

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ROWING

THE BACKSTROKE

BASIC AVOIDANCE MANEUVER

1. LOOK – While rowing you will be dodging low casts, spotting fish, tying on flies, or getting a something from the cooler. To avoid any surprises, map your course to allow ample time to set up properly.
2. AIM THE POINT – towards the back of the boat (STERN) into the direction in which you plan to back away from the rock. In the example this is achieved by dragging the left oar and pulling two or three times strongly with the right. Pull with the right oar until the boat pivots to the “escape angle” you need- about 45 degrees across the current ( the current and the river banks aren? always parallel; cross currents can be deceiving).
3. PULL – Now that you have the proper angle, pull on both oars to get away from the rock. Even in a moderate current, three to six strong strokes are usually enough. In rougher water, with big waves and cross currents, it may require several more adrenaline fueled strokes. Momentum will keep the boat going several yards after you stop rowing. Beginners tend to over-row, using more strokes than are necessary and end up zigzagging all over the river. With practice it will become second nature. If you observe an experienced boatman, they maneuver efficiently, without wasting a stroke, missing rocks by inches. A minimal amount of rowing helps maintain a steady casting distance from the bank or target water which is an asset to your angler.
4. STRAIGHTEN – Now that you’re far enough away to miss the rock, straighten out the boat to pass by it. Dragging your right oar will do the job, with perhaps one pull on the left oar. Naturally, your anglers will want to cast around the rock, so you’ll be far enough to the side of it for them to cast without needing to adjust the length of their lines to reach it. It is easier for your clients to cast if you keep the boat parallel to the bank. This allows them to cast from the side of the boat minimizing the danger of hooking the oarsman, or each other. This is the science of rowing fly fisherman.
5. RETURN – Now that you’re passed the rock, aim your stern back toward the bank. In the example this calls for dragging the right oar and making a few strong pulls on the left.
6. POSITION – Now that you’re cocked at the proper angle again, several strong pulls with both oars will get you back to your original distance from the bank.
7. RESUME – Straighten the boat in the current by dragging the left oar. Ideally you will want to maintain a comfortable casting distance to the fish for your client while drifting down the river.

COMMON ROWING PROBLEMS

THINGS TO REMEMBER

COMMON TERMS & MANEUVERS YOU MUST KNOW

EXITING THE BOAT

EDDY-IN AND EDDY-OUT

MISCELLANEOUS

Drift Boat Basics

By Willie Illingworth

Written August 14, 1989, updated October 18, 2005

How to Run a Drift Boat

It is certain that there are very few boats as specialized or unique as a river drift

boat. Drift boats are riverboats, specifically designed to run rivers, and although they are

not unsinkable, they are amazingly maneuverable and seaworth, especially in the hands

of an expert oarsman. Although their popularity began in the Pacific Northwest , they are

now used in many rivers across the United States ,, Canada and Alaska . Although drift

boats can be used for general river running, most white water enthusiasts prefer rubber

rafts. Without question, fishermen and hunters who seek unlimited access to river prefer

the easy launching, handling, anchoring, and comfortable dryness of the solid floored

drift boat. This information is to not only help you become familiar with drift boats, but

also with drift boat handling., the basic how to’s of running a drift boat, the do’s and

don’t of drift boating. Drift boat selection, making sure to choose the right drift boat to

suit your needs, and some straight talk about river courtesy. Which in itself can be

intimidating to novice drift boaters. As a fisherman, I can not help but point out that drift

boats not only provide access to the bank bout angler, but open up a whole new world of

fishing techniques, many of which can not be employed from shore.

If you study a drift boat’s basic design for very long, it becomes obvious why the

boat is built the way it is. Its bottom is flat from side to side, there is not keel. This wide

bottom area means that the boat draws very little water, thus able to float through shallow

riffles. The bottom is dished from the bow to the stern, which allows for quick turns and

maneuverability so the oarsman can pull the boat away from obstructions. The point bow

is the high end which faces down stream, and in white water situations allows the boat to

cut the wave and lift the boat through it. The blunt angles stern piece is just high enough

to keep following waves from spilling over the side, wide enough to mount an anchor

bracket, but not so wide as to spoil the turning maneuverability.

People who have had experience with conventional boats have a hard time

adjusting themselves as to how to maneuver a river drift boat in swift water. The reason

for this is that a drift boat is a little backwards. Even though the bow is the high end and

point down stream, it does not control the direction you wish to go, but rather the stern

end, and which way it is point, determines your destination. The key thing to remember

when staring out, if you are sitting in the row seat, which is located on the stern end of

the boat, is to pull on the oars and slow the boat down as you proceed downstream. If the

boat is drifting towards an obstacle and you wish to avoid it you turn the stern to the

direction that you wish to go and pull on the oars, thus pulling yourself away from the

object before straightening the boat out to proceed downstream. Most peoples’ inclination

is to push on the oars, which only insures that you will hit the obstacle before you can

maneuver away from it.

When maneuvering a drift boat downstream through somewhat quiet water, you

may wish to push on the oars to move downstream faster, or if you are in an extreme

white water situation with large waves, you may push on the oars to carry your boat

through those large waves, but 95% of your boat maneuvering you will be pulling on the

oars turning the boat at a 45 ° angle to the stream flow and pulling away from obstacles

then straightening the boat out to proceed downstream. Most classic rivers are made of a

series of pools or holes and riffles or chutes. Often times you will set-up to run a chute or

rapids and unless you are familiar with the river, you should start in the middle of the

river looking downstream trying to read the water and pull your boat away from the

obstacles. If the river tries to push you into a corner, tree or any obstacle, the key thing to

remember is to point you bow into the obstacle and the stern 45 ° to the flow and pull

your way away from it.

Do’s and Don’t of Drift Boating

Never anchor in deep swift water. Never cut your oars too deep when rowing, especially

in boily water. Never let go of your oars, while free floating, unless you are paying close

attention. Often times the river can grab your oar blade and result in a broken oar or a

bent oarlock. Never allow your passengers to stand-up while maneuvering white water.

Make sure that they are seated unless you are in an anchored position or perhaps in calm

water. Always carry life jackets for everyone on board and wear them if you are in any

white water situation. Always carry a spare oar and oarlock.

It is worth noting that even though drift boats are built for running rivers, and can

maneuver in white water situations, they are not unsinkable, especially in the hands of an

inexperienced oarsman in rough water. Thoroughly checkout the section of river you are

running, making sure that there are not waterfalls or heavy rapids, which exceed your

capability. There are may rivers or sections of rivers which can be handled easily by the

novice, at the same time there are sections of streams which are either unrunable, or

runable only by the very experienced oarsman. Also, just because you ran a section of

river successfully last year. For example, a tree may have fallen across the stream or

heavy winter flows may have narrowed the channel or changed the river course. Talk to

your fellow fishermen, stop in and ask at the sport shop or maybe even maintain a local

map with recommendations as to which section or sections of a stream would best meet

your qualifications. If you are really unsure on how to run the river or whether or not you

wish to invest in a drift boat, either go with a friend who has one or consider booking a

trip with a local river guide. Booking a trip with an experienced river guide can not only

help you get the feel for running the river, but you can learn the better fishing spots, and

even which lures or techniques are producing. Most sporting goods shops can

recommend the better local guides. Get several names if possible, call them and base your

choice on which one your like the best.

River Courtesy

Although owning a drift boat does able an angles to get away from the crowd and

reach, otherwise, inaccessible areas, you will run across occasional bank fishermen, or

sometimes float by crowded fishing areas in an effort to reach inaccessible places. Bank

fisherman or other boat fishermen might resent you rowing over the area they are fishing,

or they might resent you anchoring right where they are casting. Also, anchoring in a

sport perhaps boats have been taking turns fishing.. Most of the time a little common

sense and a friendly hello are all that is required.

Here are a few things that you might keep in mind, as you maneuver downstream

keep an eye out for other boats and bank fisherman. If you see a bank angler, try and

watch where he is casting, if he is casting short then you may wish to run the river on the

opposite side, the same would be true if the river bank was considerably congested, then

you would be safe to run the river on the opposite the populated shore. If an angler is

casing all the way across the river, fishing the obvious pocket on the far side, then you

may wish to maneuver close to him, avoiding running your boat over the top of the area

he is trying to fish. If there is a boat rowing in the current, running plugs (backtrolling),

the worst thing that you could do is to drop downstream just below him and begin

casting. Usually when drift boats setup to backtroll plugs, through a drift, they fully

intend on fishing all the way through that hole and either rowing back up to the top and

running again or proceeding downstream. If there is a boat pulling plugs in the river, you

could either setup to pull the plugs beginning upstream from him or if you intend on

casting you may wish to wait until after he has covered the water once. Likewise, if there

is a boat anchored casting, it would be rude for you to pull plugs through the water that

angler has been working. It is no different than anything else in life – try your best to

treat people as you would like to be treated and keep in mind that part of being a

sportsman is learning to share and although probably not everyone would agree. It is my

personal feeling that boats do not scare fish, except in critically low clear water

conditions.

I am always thinking of new ideas to help improve and customize my boat to fit most of my wants on the water. This year I have finally made a list of “Must Does”, so here are a couple of my latest “Must Does” that have finally made it off the list.

My Boat is a 16 ft Greg Tatman Kit

1. LineX the bottom-This was a pretty easy project. All I had to do was remove the plastic bottom that was attached. (about 100 screws) and take it to LineX of Sandy. Ask for Kelly, he is the shop owner and will take great care of anyone he works with. (Great Guy!!!) They are a top notch LineX Dealer and I would recommend them to anyone that is thinking about putting LineX on their boat, truck, Jeep or anything else you want to protect. They did all the prep work needed and sprayed on the LineX. I love this stuff. It is tough (lifetime guarantee) and it looks great. Don’t have to worry about a leaky bottom any more. Also you can tell them how you want them to spray it. For me I had them spray 4 inches up the sides and up the back in an oval shape for the anchor and up the front to give it a balanced design and rock protection.

For more information about LineX of Sandy check out the link below: http://www.linex.com/ or call Kelly direct at: (801)255-5591

Before Pics

After Pics

2. Build Tubed Rod Holders- I saw these on a Hyde and I knew I needed them. I had open rod holders before and I broke a rod last year as I jumped out of the boat. They are simple, got to any store that has PVC and buy 2 inch size with some of the metal brackets that hold them in place. I refinished them with the same textured spray paint as the inside of my boat.

3. Refinish Inside- I use a textured spray paint called Stone something. ($10 per can at Home Depot) The color is pebble. It looks like granite. After I spay and dry, I cover it with clear gloss finish and it protects it great. Plus it looks very sharp!

4. Put in Swivel Seats- I got mine at Cabelas for $40 great soft seats that fold down.

5. Build in Lanyards for front and back fishermen- Nothing is worst than having to fool around looking for stuff when you can be fishing. I have made a couple lanyards so that each fisherman has all their tippets, weights, floatant and forecepts ready and accessible all the time.

6. Fix Boat Cover- Patched holes and strenghtened my old cover that has seen to may days in the sun. It sure bet spending $500 bones on a new one.

7. Customize Wood Side Panels- With putting the LineX 4 inches up my sides, I had to remove my side panels. I didn’t want to get rid of them because I love the look they give a traditional wood boat. So I figured I could make them smaller and am give them a new look to fit my personality. (The design comes from my art background)

Before Pics

After

The Payoff to a lot of hard work.

Things to come:

1. Dry Storage Boxes in Front, Middle and back seats

2. Built in Cooler under rowers seat.

3. Refinish Trailer

4. Durabak or Raptor inside floor

5. Cup holders

6. Lay out seat-So when my wife floats with me she can lay out in her bikini and read a book