Study Topic Of The Week: Going Deep In The Name Of Trout Research

By Kirk Deeter Photos and video by Tim Romano Field and Stream Mag

I am a 6-foot-long cutthroat trout, wallowing near the bottom of Colorado ’s South Platte River . The water is perfect, not too high, not too low, 48 degrees and clear. I’m holding in the current with other trout, watching bugs float by. One is drifting right at my head. I turn for a closer look and-”foul hooked. I swim to the surface and spit the regulator out of my mouth. “Dang it, Bruce, you snagged me again.” I’m in the middle of an experiment to find out what trout really do under the river surface. The only way to truly understand the fish, I figured, was to be the fish, so I got out my scuba gear and jumped in. Here’s what I learned.

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Lesson 1. False Casts Ruin Fishing.
I was able to slide right into a run without spooking trout. They weren’t bothered by a big bubble-blowing blob, so long as I moved slowly. But as soon as photographer Tim Romano moved the boom-operated underwater camera overhead, even ever so subtly, the fish scattered in panic. At one point, a shadow passed above and I saw fish slink away toward the rocks. When I surfaced to ask what had happened, they told me a blue heron had flown over the run.

More significantly, I watched from be low as my friend Bruce Mardick made several false casts over the fish. As he whipped the line back and forth, the fish went ballistic and hid against the bank. After allowing them to recover, he started limiting false casts, even using roll casts, and the trout seemed undisturbed. The point: You get one, maybe two, false casts before the fish are onto you. Try to direct these at an angle behind the fish; only your final cast should target the run.

Lesson 2. You Miss A Lot Of Strikes.
Jeremy Hyatt, one of the top guides in Colorado , fished a nymph rig. I observed the fish inhaling the fly and spitting it back out like a sunflower seed. Hyatt never saw his indicator move and certainly never felt the fish. The perfect “dead drift,” in which flies float with virtually no influence from the tippet and line, elicited more strikes, but the slack line caused more misses. Even the best anglers miss at least 50 percent of takes.

Just for grins, I suggested to my friend Anthony Bartkowski that he cast, mend the line and, once the drift was set up, count slowly to three, then set the hook. Sure enough, he got into a few trout that way. Next we tried a variation on the European style of nymphing. The angler uses heavily weighted flies, casts more directly upstream into the run, and essentially rakes the flies through the fish zone. I saw the fish eat the flies less often, but the percentage of hookups on takes improved.

I guess you have to pick your poison. A good compromise solution is to use that dead-drift technique but get in the habit of “mini-setting” the hook at the end of every drift. You’ll be surprised how often you’re buttoned on when you don’t expect it.

Lesson 3. Suspended Trout Rule.
You can improve your odds in sight fishing by casting at the right fish. What do I mean? Say you’ve spotted three fish in a run. Two of them are essentially glued to the bottom, not moving much, while the third is suspended halfway up the water column, weaving back and forth, eating naturally. That’s your player, and it should be your target.

In one situation, Mardick was casting at a group of several fish, but only one of them was visibly suspended in the feeding lane. Instead of dredging the run for the fish on the bottom, he lightened his weight so the flies would drift midway up the water column. Sure enough, that fish ate it on the first drift. This happened just a few feet in front of my face.

Too many anglers make the mistake of chasing the biggest fish they see. If that big fish is hunkered down, you’re wasting an opportunity. Catch the fish that’s eating, then add another split shot and frustrate yourself by chasing difficult-to-catch bottom dwellers.

Lesson 4. Small Tippets Aren’t Necessary.
I’ll never fish 6X or smaller tippet again. At least not in moving water, and certainly not on a nymph rig. I watched fish react the same way to a full range of tippets and flies, and dropping down in size on the tippet made no difference at all. Zip. I could see when the angler used 6X as readily as I saw 3X. Granted, I’m not a fish (just a writer pretending to be a fish), but I don’t think it mattered that much to the trout. At least that appeared to be the case when the water was moving at a rate of, say, 1 linear river foot per second or faster. You might as well have the advantage of stronger line.

Lesson 5. Current Speed Dictates Fly Size.
When the fish are focused on a certain insect type, you want to pick a fly pattern that best imitates its size, color, and so forth. It’s not rocket science. But when the trout are eating opportunistically, you can and should use larger flies in faster water.

Here’s evidence that we gleaned from observing two sections of the exact same run, the Bridge Hole at Boxwood Gulch Ranch in Shawnee , Colo. At the top of the run, the water moved quickly through a riffle and side channel. At the bottom, the water pooled and moved slowly.

In the fast water, we watched via the remote camera as Hyatt hooked several fish on a rig with a No. 12 San Juan worm and a No. 14 Prince nymph. The fish could see these flies well but had less time to scrutinize them as they pulsed through the swifter water; the trout therefore made impulse reactions and ate the flies. At the bottom of the same run, however, in the slow water, the big flies weren’t catching any fish. We had to use a No. 20 RS2 to get just one strike (and not coincidentally, we had a harder time positioning the video camera in a way that didn’t spook the trout).

Faster currents allow you to get away with more, and sometimes those itty-bitty bugs get lost in the flow.

Lesson 6: Attractor Flies Work.
I always fish two flies on a nymph rig. The first, suspended about a foot below my weight, is a larger attractor fly, like a pink San Juan worm or a Copper John. Then I tie another 12 to 18 inches of tippet to its hook shank and attach a smaller fly, a “morsel,” on the bottom. This is my standard rig in fast water and often in slow water as well. In really slow, clear water, I use two small flies.

In theory, the first fly grabs the fish’s attention, and when it investigates, it sees the second one and eats it. Sounds like a stretch, but I witnessed this playing out. I positioned myself on the bottom about 4 feet downstream and slightly to the side of a big rainbow trout. Mardick cast, and I watched the fish notice the flies, turn around and swim right past me, as if to say, I’ll be right back, I have to check this out. He followed them (a yellow stonefly and a small red Copper John), apparently decided against eating them, then went to the exact spot where he’d been holding before. On the next cast, the flies swung by me, the fish turned and trailed them out of sight, then came swimming up the run right to his original spot. After the third cast, the rainbow cruised by again, following the flies, only this time, he didn’t come back. I surfaced to see Mardick and Bartkowski netting the fish. He had eaten the bottom fly, falling victim to curiosity.

Lesson 7: All Strike Indicators Are Not Alike.
From my in-water perspective, it seemed that strike indicators made of yarn did not freak the fish out as much as the solid-foam bobber kind. The fish would scatter away from the latter after it hit the water. I don’t know why; maybe the noise from the piece of foam slapping the surface was an issue. Certainly the solid indicators were more obvious and foreign looking as they floated overhead. Yarn indicators solved both problems. They were silent when they hit the water, and from my perspective looking from the bottom up, the yarn seemed to blend in more naturally with the dispersed bubble patterns on the surface. It looked organic, not man-made. We switched colors of the yarn indicators, and none seemed to spook fish or stop them from taking the flies.

Lesson 8: Weight Is Pivotal.
Weight is an enormous part of the equation in nymph fishing, especially when you are “prospecting” by fishing attractor-type patterns like Prince nymphs and Copper Johns. If a substantial hatch is happening, or a prolific number of bugs are washing through a run, trout will key on those insects and make more effort to eat. When fish are just hanging out in the water column, however, and merely feeding on opportunity, you have to hit them in the head.

I saw the fish bob and weave left and right, a few inches at a time, picking off nymphs but flatly ignoring bugs that floated overhead. One time, though, we had the weight just right: Two flies floated by a trout on either side of its mouth, the tippet “flossed” it, and the current pulled the trailer fly (and stuck it) right in the corner of the fish’s mouth.

In another instance, we use the remote video to monitor a group of massive (20-plus-inch) brown trout feeding in a pool below a waterfall. Because the fish were feeding on the upwelling current, they were literally suspended in the water at a 45-degree angle, noses down. We over-weighed the tippet to “smart bomb” the flies straight to the bottom, then lifted them gently toward the surgacce. One of those big browns hammered a Barr emerger as it fluttered upward.

Here’s the point: You should change your weight three times before you change your fly pattern.

Lesson 9: Trout Love Change.
Places where you find changes in structure, changes in depth, and changes in currents are where you’ll find most of the fish. We found trout to be less spook in the more pronounced feeding lanes, for example, where a rock made a hard current seam and there was protective cover close by. I was able to approach fish in these situations much more easily than I could those that were exposed in open riffles and pools. You’ll do yourself a favor by zeroing in on spots in the river where you see pronounced changes in current and the bottom.

Lesson 10: Drift Matters Most.
Ask a trout guide “What are they eating?” and he or she will likely answer, “A good drift.” If you flies are dragging, the trout will not only refuse them but will often swim away,. We watched over and over via the video camera as we floated a large nymph through a series of pools and riffles. On purpose, we alternated ad drifts (in which the fly looked like a dog pulling on its leash) with good drifts (in which the fly floated naturally). We could not have choreographed a more graphic response: The trout shunned and swam away from the dragging fly and, conversely, slid over to check out the smooth presentations. Your cast is about one-tenth as important as your drift. Learn to mend your line and control your drift, and half the battle is won.

 

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Most people think that rowing a drift boat is easy, until they try it. This week we give you some great advice to rowing a drift boat for the first time or for a seasoned guide.  

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ROWING

THE BACKSTROKE

BASIC AVOIDANCE MANEUVER

1. LOOK – While rowing you will be dodging low casts, spotting fish, tying on flies, or getting a something from the cooler. To avoid any surprises, map your course to allow ample time to set up properly.
2. AIM THE POINT – towards the back of the boat (STERN) into the direction in which you plan to back away from the rock. In the example this is achieved by dragging the left oar and pulling two or three times strongly with the right. Pull with the right oar until the boat pivots to the “escape angle” you need- about 45 degrees across the current ( the current and the river banks aren? always parallel; cross currents can be deceiving).
3. PULL – Now that you have the proper angle, pull on both oars to get away from the rock. Even in a moderate current, three to six strong strokes are usually enough. In rougher water, with big waves and cross currents, it may require several more adrenaline fueled strokes. Momentum will keep the boat going several yards after you stop rowing. Beginners tend to over-row, using more strokes than are necessary and end up zigzagging all over the river. With practice it will become second nature. If you observe an experienced boatman, they maneuver efficiently, without wasting a stroke, missing rocks by inches. A minimal amount of rowing helps maintain a steady casting distance from the bank or target water which is an asset to your angler.
4. STRAIGHTEN – Now that you’re far enough away to miss the rock, straighten out the boat to pass by it. Dragging your right oar will do the job, with perhaps one pull on the left oar. Naturally, your anglers will want to cast around the rock, so you’ll be far enough to the side of it for them to cast without needing to adjust the length of their lines to reach it. It is easier for your clients to cast if you keep the boat parallel to the bank. This allows them to cast from the side of the boat minimizing the danger of hooking the oarsman, or each other. This is the science of rowing fly fisherman.
5. RETURN – Now that you’re passed the rock, aim your stern back toward the bank. In the example this calls for dragging the right oar and making a few strong pulls on the left.
6. POSITION – Now that you’re cocked at the proper angle again, several strong pulls with both oars will get you back to your original distance from the bank.
7. RESUME – Straighten the boat in the current by dragging the left oar. Ideally you will want to maintain a comfortable casting distance to the fish for your client while drifting down the river.

COMMON ROWING PROBLEMS

THINGS TO REMEMBER

COMMON TERMS & MANEUVERS YOU MUST KNOW

EXITING THE BOAT

EDDY-IN AND EDDY-OUT

MISCELLANEOUS

Drift Boat Basics

By Willie Illingworth

Written August 14, 1989, updated October 18, 2005

How to Run a Drift Boat

It is certain that there are very few boats as specialized or unique as a river drift

boat. Drift boats are riverboats, specifically designed to run rivers, and although they are

not unsinkable, they are amazingly maneuverable and seaworth, especially in the hands

of an expert oarsman. Although their popularity began in the Pacific Northwest , they are

now used in many rivers across the United States ,, Canada and Alaska . Although drift

boats can be used for general river running, most white water enthusiasts prefer rubber

rafts. Without question, fishermen and hunters who seek unlimited access to river prefer

the easy launching, handling, anchoring, and comfortable dryness of the solid floored

drift boat. This information is to not only help you become familiar with drift boats, but

also with drift boat handling., the basic how to’s of running a drift boat, the do’s and

don’t of drift boating. Drift boat selection, making sure to choose the right drift boat to

suit your needs, and some straight talk about river courtesy. Which in itself can be

intimidating to novice drift boaters. As a fisherman, I can not help but point out that drift

boats not only provide access to the bank bout angler, but open up a whole new world of

fishing techniques, many of which can not be employed from shore.

If you study a drift boat’s basic design for very long, it becomes obvious why the

boat is built the way it is. Its bottom is flat from side to side, there is not keel. This wide

bottom area means that the boat draws very little water, thus able to float through shallow

riffles. The bottom is dished from the bow to the stern, which allows for quick turns and

maneuverability so the oarsman can pull the boat away from obstructions. The point bow

is the high end which faces down stream, and in white water situations allows the boat to

cut the wave and lift the boat through it. The blunt angles stern piece is just high enough

to keep following waves from spilling over the side, wide enough to mount an anchor

bracket, but not so wide as to spoil the turning maneuverability.

People who have had experience with conventional boats have a hard time

adjusting themselves as to how to maneuver a river drift boat in swift water. The reason

for this is that a drift boat is a little backwards. Even though the bow is the high end and

point down stream, it does not control the direction you wish to go, but rather the stern

end, and which way it is point, determines your destination. The key thing to remember

when staring out, if you are sitting in the row seat, which is located on the stern end of

the boat, is to pull on the oars and slow the boat down as you proceed downstream. If the

boat is drifting towards an obstacle and you wish to avoid it you turn the stern to the

direction that you wish to go and pull on the oars, thus pulling yourself away from the

object before straightening the boat out to proceed downstream. Most peoples’ inclination

is to push on the oars, which only insures that you will hit the obstacle before you can

maneuver away from it.

When maneuvering a drift boat downstream through somewhat quiet water, you

may wish to push on the oars to move downstream faster, or if you are in an extreme

white water situation with large waves, you may push on the oars to carry your boat

through those large waves, but 95% of your boat maneuvering you will be pulling on the

oars turning the boat at a 45 ° angle to the stream flow and pulling away from obstacles

then straightening the boat out to proceed downstream. Most classic rivers are made of a

series of pools or holes and riffles or chutes. Often times you will set-up to run a chute or

rapids and unless you are familiar with the river, you should start in the middle of the

river looking downstream trying to read the water and pull your boat away from the

obstacles. If the river tries to push you into a corner, tree or any obstacle, the key thing to

remember is to point you bow into the obstacle and the stern 45 ° to the flow and pull

your way away from it.

Do’s and Don’t of Drift Boating

Never anchor in deep swift water. Never cut your oars too deep when rowing, especially

in boily water. Never let go of your oars, while free floating, unless you are paying close

attention. Often times the river can grab your oar blade and result in a broken oar or a

bent oarlock. Never allow your passengers to stand-up while maneuvering white water.

Make sure that they are seated unless you are in an anchored position or perhaps in calm

water. Always carry life jackets for everyone on board and wear them if you are in any

white water situation. Always carry a spare oar and oarlock.

It is worth noting that even though drift boats are built for running rivers, and can

maneuver in white water situations, they are not unsinkable, especially in the hands of an

inexperienced oarsman in rough water. Thoroughly checkout the section of river you are

running, making sure that there are not waterfalls or heavy rapids, which exceed your

capability. There are may rivers or sections of rivers which can be handled easily by the

novice, at the same time there are sections of streams which are either unrunable, or

runable only by the very experienced oarsman. Also, just because you ran a section of

river successfully last year. For example, a tree may have fallen across the stream or

heavy winter flows may have narrowed the channel or changed the river course. Talk to

your fellow fishermen, stop in and ask at the sport shop or maybe even maintain a local

map with recommendations as to which section or sections of a stream would best meet

your qualifications. If you are really unsure on how to run the river or whether or not you

wish to invest in a drift boat, either go with a friend who has one or consider booking a

trip with a local river guide. Booking a trip with an experienced river guide can not only

help you get the feel for running the river, but you can learn the better fishing spots, and

even which lures or techniques are producing. Most sporting goods shops can

recommend the better local guides. Get several names if possible, call them and base your

choice on which one your like the best.

River Courtesy

Although owning a drift boat does able an angles to get away from the crowd and

reach, otherwise, inaccessible areas, you will run across occasional bank fishermen, or

sometimes float by crowded fishing areas in an effort to reach inaccessible places. Bank

fisherman or other boat fishermen might resent you rowing over the area they are fishing,

or they might resent you anchoring right where they are casting. Also, anchoring in a

sport perhaps boats have been taking turns fishing.. Most of the time a little common

sense and a friendly hello are all that is required.

Here are a few things that you might keep in mind, as you maneuver downstream

keep an eye out for other boats and bank fisherman. If you see a bank angler, try and

watch where he is casting, if he is casting short then you may wish to run the river on the

opposite side, the same would be true if the river bank was considerably congested, then

you would be safe to run the river on the opposite the populated shore. If an angler is

casing all the way across the river, fishing the obvious pocket on the far side, then you

may wish to maneuver close to him, avoiding running your boat over the top of the area

he is trying to fish. If there is a boat rowing in the current, running plugs (backtrolling),

the worst thing that you could do is to drop downstream just below him and begin

casting. Usually when drift boats setup to backtroll plugs, through a drift, they fully

intend on fishing all the way through that hole and either rowing back up to the top and

running again or proceeding downstream. If there is a boat pulling plugs in the river, you

could either setup to pull the plugs beginning upstream from him or if you intend on

casting you may wish to wait until after he has covered the water once. Likewise, if there

is a boat anchored casting, it would be rude for you to pull plugs through the water that

angler has been working. It is no different than anything else in life – try your best to

treat people as you would like to be treated and keep in mind that part of being a

sportsman is learning to share and although probably not everyone would agree. It is my

personal feeling that boats do not scare fish, except in critically low clear water

conditions.

Fly Fishing for Tiger Trout: Here Kitty Kitty, this Monster Tiger Trout was taken at Dr G’s favorite stillwater lake.  Read on to see some tips from people you know a thing or two about Tiger Trout…

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The Utah DWR gave a good write up about fishing for Tigers in Utah…Check Here

More to come…